Wisconsin ain't the Dairy State for nothing.
Milwaukee has the goods to back up that weighty title: frozen custard stands. Prepare yourself for the effects, because good custard is likely to change your life. It only takes a couple cones to be transformed into an addict, suddenly craving this regional dairy at the most unexpected of times. Afterwards, ice cream will seem grainy and bland cafeteria cones or freezer burned popsicles will just seem like a sign of disrespect.
Luckily, for students, there are many personable establishments — astray from Kopp's and Culver's — to choose from, and the pricing is on our side, with most cones costing no more than $3.
Custard stands are a Milwaukee staple, and Gilles Frozen Custard, 7515 W. Bluemound Rd., is one of the town's favorites and, according to the owner, also Milwaukee's oldest. It opened in 1938 and is a great example of a little place where time stands still. Above the small shop is a red neon sign reading "Frozen Custard," and the parking lot is usually where most people devour cones or sundaes. High school students clad in white pants and blouses will take your order.
Most stands serve up three flavors — chocolate, vanilla, or the flavor of the day — and Gilles follows suit. A regular cone costs $2.90 and portions are pretty generous. This place has the most human element out of any stand in Milwaukee — the custard is the only cold thing about it. It's also rumored to be Major League Baseball commissioner Bud Selig's favorite Milwaukee lunch locale.
Leon's Frozen Custard, 3131 S. 27th St., is a Milwaukee landmark. It'll feel like you've stepped onto the set of "American Graffiti" when ordering from this neon-lit drive-in. Leon's always has chocolate, vanilla and butter pecan ready to go, along with a special fourth flavor added on weekends.
It's been family owned and operated since opening in 1942, with a handwritten menu display board and employees preparing desserts behind steamy windows. This place is timeless — making it great for anyone and everyone on any occasion. Even the lactose intolerant would love this stand from its charming and retro
look alone.
Kitt's Frozen Custard Drive-In is a bit off the beaten path at 7000 W. Capitol Dr., but is worth a visit for both the custard and prices. Kitt's fast food is as greasy as it is cheap — people leave the old-fashioned stand carrying fast food that is double bagged to prevent the grease from soaking through. A regular cone of custard is $1.99 and is about as big as your head.
Like Leon's, Kitt's also offers vanilla, chocolate and butter pecan along with three flavors of the day ranging from banana taffy to Oreo. The interior of the stand, decorated in a 1950s theme of model cars and Coca Cola paraphernalia, only has a few chairs and tables. It gets hot and there isn't much circulation, so plan on eating in the parking lot or in your car — which is how good custard should be eaten anyway.
The addition of egg yolk distinguishes frozen custard from ice cream, which is usually made with only cream and sugar. It might be a buzzkill, but most custard is made up of about 10 percent butterfat — a statistic that will begin to take a toll on any lean physique. If healthier fare is your style, check out Cold Spoons Gelato, 5924 W. Vliet St. Gelato typically has less butterfat than both ice cream and custard, and the portions are a bit more conservative since the dessert it so dense. Cold Spoons opened in September, and is nestled in an attractive niche in town with free trade and coffee shops.
Half the appeal is in the gelato's display, since the colorful frozen goodness is heaped into metal tins and sprinkled with chocolate chips, candies or fresh fruit under the glass display case. Almost every fruit flavor under the sun is available as gelato, including pear, mango and even a blue smurfberry flavor that tastes like cotton candy.
If you're looking for something a bit more decadent, try the chocolate cordial cherry paired with amaretto, or the panna cotta flavor, which tastes like wedding cake. You can combine two flavors into a small for $3.25, or three flavors into a medium for $4.50. Gelato shakes are also available for $4.75. The prices are steep compared to Milwaukee's beloved no-frills custard stands, but Cold Spoons may be the place to visit if you're feeling worldly or want to celebrate a special occasion.